Viktor&Rolf
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Let's recognize and appreciate V&R for the diversity of the cast. No race or gender was left out- with the additional bonus of a patchwork race perhaps representing the culmination of all races- a mixed race. After all Rolf did refer to the action dolls as mascots. Up and until the models walked out without the doll heads I was really beginning to believe V&R were making a statement about beauty standards in fashion. Perhaps notioning against the stereotypical Karlrie Kloss, Kendall Jenner type of beauty that not only dominates the runway but has also become the standard. As if other types and shapes of women cannot wear clothing well enough and are not a model of beauty. Perhaps that's what I wanted them to say. In reality V&R wanted to "Show the surreal side of reality" because "Reality is so weird right now" said Rolf. This is might actually be their most wearable collection- since they stopped making ready-to-wear. The luscious, padded and meticulously manipulated, high-tech Japanese fabric was merely a side note after the dolls heads and the matching gloves and tights created in the same skin tone as the head to really tie together the idea of the action doll. And while the dolls varied extensively the shape and from of the garments didn't run far from an exaggerated and Couture-d version of the humble utilitarian men’s wear staple, the bomber jacket. Although variations were definitely present, V&R used almost every trick in the book. From lengthening to shortening to flipping the entire thing inside-out, bombarding us with that traffic cone orange. They even added giant bows, ruffles and the hap-hazardous geometric patterns seemed to be a break from the monotoned color stillness of the bomber jackets. This is ever amplified as the models came back down the runway without the doll heads and their zips and buttons undid to reveal the remainder of the garments that were underneath. I speak as if I were in the show meanwhile I was in a horridly well lit classroom endlessly sewing, although in spirit I really was there. The collection consisted of 47 looks in total, these are I thought are the most "Ra-Ra" and you absolutely needed to see. To view the full collection click here.
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