Cool, calm, minimalist and sophisticated. Khaite is a ready-to-wear brand originating in New York and lead by head designer Catherine Holstein, it is also Greek for “long flowing hair”. The brand is a reaction to the gap in the American market for clothing that is feminine but not “pretty or precious”- Holstein. The brand is built on the base of providing feminine design that comes from a strong and robust point of view with functionality being as important as aesthetic.
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Essence of the BrandThe physicalisation of feminine but not precious clothing can be seen in every collection since its debut Fall 18’ show, and has a stayed true to it’s strong yet feminine inspiration. It does not conform to seasonal trends and instead finds confidence in the contrast between opposing elements like masculine and feminine, strength and softness, structure and fluidity, and modern and classic.
Luxuriously textured fabrics, Khaite’s Resort 17’ collection featured feather-light knits, softly sculptured tailoring and. The classic Vanessa Jean comes in different minimalist shades; Blue, black, cream and fashions a straight- leg cut with a high-waited rise. Mid-length skirts and flared trousers are crafted in structural cotton twill with slits up the ankle, while long satin dresses, cotton poplin shirts, and crepe blouses are elevated by unexpected details like covered buttons or with rounded sleeves and raw edges and rhinestone-trimmed pumps—a collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. A collection of easy-to-wear basics is supported by the mainstay of soft cashmere knits, and sensuous jersey bodysuits that hold sustenance in its flattery of the female form. |
Raised between California and London and having schooled at Parsons, studying fine arts and fashion, Catherine Holstein is no stranger to fashion having had a name sake label which she discontinued in 2009 due to the American recession. She jumped directly into the industry after her junior thesis on Jean Patou was picked up by industry veteran Julie Gilhart who, at the time was the fashion director of Barneys New York. Gilhart placed an order on one of her collections and in turn she ended up selling in 40 different stores including Saks Fifth Avenue.
The pressures of running a ‘one-woman-show’ without any prior business knowledge or experience whilst still juggling school full time subsequently resulted in her dropping out. She put everything she had into her name sake label which she started during school at the ripe age of 21. |
After the American recession in 2008 Holstein decided to discontinue the label. After running a “boutique-like-business” she decided to experience fashion on the other side of the spectrum. She applied to GAP which was the only worldwide direct-to-consumer retailer at the time. (Manoff, 2018) After a two years as the senior director of knitwear she was approached by Vera Wang and appointed design director. "At Gap and Vera Wang, I got to understand that people buy the same categories and are attracted to familiarity and comfort. It's about finding a common place for everyone." She had many stints at a wide range of brands that included The Elder Statesman, J.Crew and Maiyet.
Enter Vanessa Traina. After a successful first label and having learnt the ins and outs of mass consumerism and fast fashion Holstein was ready to get back |
BIOGRAPHYinto the race. When she met Traina she had a business plan and a round of samples made and was in the process of finding funding. In partnership with backing from Adam Pritzker and Vanessa Traina's holding company, Khaite was launched in 2016.She started the label because she felt “there was a need for strong American sportswear that is feminine without being precious.”(Milligan, 2018)
It’s initial wave of popularity grew from its denim (As seen in Figure 2)– recognisable for its metal and black lacquered hardware – which the label could barely restock before it sold out. The denims earned a sensible cult following having sold 4000 pairs in 2017. |
Understanding the Target MarketI usually don't include this but 'Designer Profile' articles but Holstein has such a introspective view on who the Khaite women is and why she cannot define her, I thought it great food for though. For designers, consumers and fashion lovers alike.
In her absolution to find harmony in opposing factors, Holstein is reluctant to pigeonhole who the Khaite woman is. ‘The most common thing I hear designers say is, “Our woman knows who she is and what she wants.” I actually don’t know what that looks like – to truly know who you are? It baffles me. And in that acknowledgment, I find the inspiration to create pieces that make me feel closer to myself, for whatever that might look like.’- Holstein That being said women buying her clothing are affluent, from the Upper middle and upper class and is undoubtedly a city dweller. They are between the ages of 20 to 40. She is a modern working women who isn’t concerned with current trends and street style looks, she prefers polished, simple but eye-catch pieces. She is concerned with quality over trend but still favours a timeless aesthetic.The tightly-edited collection includes Japanese cotton jeans for $340, Crepe Dress for $1,250 and hand-knitted cashmere sweaters for $1,150. All garments are price between $300 - $2,200. |